Ethiopia: Debre Damo & Hawzen: Part II

Posted July 16, 2013 by Rahul Aggarwal

It was an early start today, as we had a long drive ahead. After a 6am breakfast, we got into our jeep and left for Hawzen, a small town on the way to Lalibela. After about an hour we stopped in Mekele, Ethiopia’s second largest city. We stocked up on some supplies for the journey and after downing another quick strong Ethiopian coffee we were on our way again. The next stop was to be Debre Damo. This is a remarkable place.

Back in the 6th century, when Islam was trying to make inroads into Ethiopia, orthodox monks shifted the monastery to one of the least accessible places in the region. It was shifted to a clifftop, where the only way of reaching it was by climbing a rope up the sheer cliff-face. Women are also forbidden to visit to this day, and the local monks also try to ensure female species of any animals do not come nearby either! We parked up the jeep and walked up to the cliff.

I could see the ‘ropeman’ at the top throw down a harness made of goat skin which was promptly tied around me, then the rope was also thrown down which was virtually impossible to grip and felt more like a varnished banister. Anyway, I gradually started my ascent without any knowledge of how one should climb this before the ropeman starting hoisting me with the goatskin harness! I was literally getting hauled up without moving my legs or feet at times!! I’d be lying if I didn’t say I was uncomfortable at times, but eventually I clawed my way to the top and then to my feet before taking a good 5 minute rest! From there it was just a short 5 minute walk to the monastery. It was remarkable to think that such a place existed. A monastery dating back 1400 years, beautifully carved from the outside, and once the chief monk allowed me inside, I was amazed at the original paintings which still adorned the walls.

He also showed me a Bible dating back over 1000 years, written in Ge’ez, the parent language of Amharic. Absolutely incredible. It certainly took a while for this to sink in. It was then back down the cliff face, with the help of the local guide who was shimmying down beneath me. It can’t have been a pretty sight and I pity him for having such a close-up view of my backside! This was all hungry work, and we had packed lunch from the hotel, so we parked the jeep at the perfect spot under a tree close nearby, where donkeys and crows patiently waited on for scraps.

It was then onwards to Hawzen. Ethiopia is in parts dry and arid, but in many other parts lush green, not something always associated with this country, which unfortunately suffers from its negative coverage in Western media of droughts. Since I was visiting in rainy season, it was inevitable the heavens would open, which they did and it poured down for about an hour, and very quickly dry river beds suddenly started flowing with muddy water. I watched on rather helplessly as villagers got drenched trying to scramble for cover.

Ethiopia is Africa in its rawest form and is not for the faint-hearted. At times it can be hard to come to terms how very different lives we lead back home compared to others struggling to make it to the next day. A long journey certainly gives plenty of time for reflection, and albeit temporarily, my problems seemed so insignificant in light of the daily struggle some had here. Ethiopia is certainly not all about poverty, but one has to be aware that it exists. Our guide, Andrea, was excellent in that he never allowed any food to go waste. He rightly said there are so many needy people in Ethiopia, so he would always get leftovers packed and give them to someone desperate for food. I hope our tours can help in some way how ever small that might be in the grand scheme of things.

The sun had set as we pulled into Hawzen. It had been a tough drive but all seemed to be worthwhile when I saw where I’d be spending the night – Gheralta Lodge. The Italian owner of this place has set up a little piece of rustic paradise in what feels like the middle of nowhere. The lobby area had been beautifully decorated with local themes and the cottage in which I would be staying was just as special. I quickly dumped my luggage and scrambled up one of the nearby mounds for idyllic views of the nearby village and countryside. I never considered myself that interested in birdwatching, but I could quickly see myself becoming a convert! I have never seen such a bewildering variety of brilliantly coloured birds, some even with long tails and gigantic wings.

After showering, I tucked into a delicious meal in the dining area along with the customary bottle of St George’s beer, before turning in for the night. My stay here was going to be brief, as tomorrow it was an early start to Lalibela...

This blog is part of an Off-The-Beaten-Track Travel Diary. Click on the link below to navigate through this journey.