Rock-Hewn Churches of Lalibela

Posted 18th September 2015

Carved from a single piece of stone, these churches are far from basic or crude; they reflect a sophisticated building tradition and it’s easy to see why this remarkable place has become a centre for ritual and pilgrimage.

But how and why were these churches built? Named after an early 13th century king called Lalibela, who was part of a dynasty that could trace their lineage back to the Kings of Israel, Lalibela is said to have had a divine vision that inspired this town’s development. This vision is said to have moved him to such a level that he wanted to build a ‘new Jerusalem’. King Lalibela was determined that the town of Roha (later known as Lalibela) should be the worthy capital. Lalibela began by renaming areas of the town to reflect biblical places; for example, the river that runs through the town became known as the River Jordan. Across his capital a total of 13 new churches were built. According to legend, these churches sprang up very quickly and it was said that men worked at these sites during the day, whilst angels worked the night-time shift.

Bete Medhane Alem is the largest structure in the northern grouping of these churches. Translating as ‘House of the Redeemer of the World’, this structure is the world’s largest monolithic church and serves as the home of one of Ethiopia’s most precious heirlooms – the Lalibela Cross. Alongside Bete Medhane Alem is Bete Maryam. Bete Maryam is possibly the oldest of all the churches within Lalibela and its interior is beautifully designed with vibrant colours, designs and Judeo-Christian symbols. Also within the northern group of churches is the Church of Golgotha. This church is said to contain the body of King Lalibela along with a replica of the biblical Adam’s tomb.

The western group of churches at Lalibela is best known for Bete Giyogis, or the ‘Church of St George’. This cross-shaped church has been called the ‘Eighth Wonder of the World’. It was the last church to be built and, as a result, is the best preserved. Carved from solid red volcanic rock, Bete Giyogis is sunken into the hillside and its splendour on the inside is equally as impressive. Beautiful images of St George can be found adorning the walls throughout the church, with one of the most impressive images depicting St George slaying his dragon.

While a great deal of academic debate still surrounds these churches and how many King Lalibela would have actually seen in his lifetime, the churches at Lalibela are still of great spiritual significance. The churches here continue to practice many of the rituals and rites that would have been going on here since the 13th century.